1970 CT70HK0 Candy Emerald Green (restored)
1972 CT70HK1 Candy Ruby Red (restored)
1973 CT70K2 Candy Topaz Orange (Grandfather's original)
1974 CT70K3 Candy Topaz Orange (low mileage original)
1974 CT70K3 Candy Riviera Blue (restoration-in progress)
The ez out broke where I could get a pair of vise grips on it and get it out. I was looking at it this morning and I am just gonna have to get a set of bars or find a used set. This is one of those times where I wish I had a drill press, apparently I can't drill as straight as I needed to. I look in the bar at the top there are full threads on one side and half threads on the other and at the bottom its the same just opposite sides. On a better note I found a place that I can get all the nuts, bolts and screws but a few ( like 4 or 5 ) for around $45 in plain stainless they have zinc and polished stainless I just have not priced them yet. Oh this does not include the internal or external engine fasteners I am gonna check on that today. I am really looking for Black Oxide but they are proving hard to find in all the sizes. I got to get to work now so I can pay for all this instead of talking about it.
Chris
Last edited by TopherGreen; 03-10-2010 at 12:05 PM.
You might have been okay had you been soaking it with the PB Blaster and whacking the bolt every now and then to see if you could break the *hold* on the rust.
My topaz was about the ugly when dad first gave it to me after he was finished abusing it. Have you purchased or borrowed an impact driver? You will want to, believe me.
OK I got some questions. I have to get atleast a right handle bar so I am searching ebay so my question is, Is there a difference in the handle bars between all the years or are they all the same?
2nd Has anyone one used the Carb from hondaminitrail.com part #c148?
THanks in advance
Chris
Wow i thought we lost this site. While it was down I got the handle bar temp fixed. I also got it running again. I almost gave up and I adjusted the valves and it fired right up. I rode it around for a about a half hour and it quit. Now it will run for about 2 or 3 min then quit and will not crank again for about 10 min. I took the left cover back off to check the points and when you turn the flywheel to f mark they do not open if you turn it about an inch past the mark they open. I then took the timing chain cover off the left side and the timing chain is pretty lose. Do you guys think it could have jumped time? Would that cause these problems? If so how do you set the timing?
Thanks
Chris
If the tiiming is that far off it could be the lobe for the points was dry and wore out the follower causing your timing/point gap to change significantly. That happen to me when I fired up my HK1 after sittting for 18yrs. I re-adjusted the points and it ran great. Also aplied the special grease for the points so it wouldnt happen again.
Somthing to look at anyway.![]()
71 K0 http://lilhonda.com/webboard/f14/project-bling-7398/
72 HK1 Candy Yellow Special 80% restored.
74 K3 Candy Topaz orange 50% restored