Thread: Swingarm All Wonky

I have not been riding my little Lifan CT-70 clone lately as I have my XS 650 project on the road. The last few times I rode the Lifan it felt like the swingarm bushings were gone on the left side. Every time I went over a bump in the road the steering felt loose.

Are these swingarm bushings known to fail? Is there a bronze bushing replacement?

Thanks,
Tom Graham
Columbus, Ohio

They are known to go bad from time to time.
Check out the Known Issues thread in the section.


The Honda Replacement is nothing more than what the Lifan has. So it isn't much of a upgrade.

Originally Posted by dsrt4

They are known to go bad from time to time.
Check out the Known Issues thread in the section.


The Honda Replacement is nothing more than what the Lifan has. So it isn't much of a upgrade.

Except, of course, that the Honda version has 40 years of proven field service. If it was equally failure-prone, everyone would know about it by this late date. In this instance, "upgrade", if one wishes to call it that, means getting a "set & forget it" reliable part. Seems like money well-spent, for saftey-related items, and not much of it at that...to extend the life in your Lifan

If it was any better of a part I'd be the first one to say it. Case in point.. the Rear hub.

The Rear Hub Really needs to get replaced with the honda part.

I just don't think the honda SwingArm Bushing is any better than the Lifan bushing.

Same goes with the Honda Bolt I just recived.
It rockwells out the same as the Lifan Bolt.

I'm neither hurling rocks, insults, nor fecal debris. I've long-since stopped Rockwell testing frame-related parts because, as you say, that shows nothing amazing in any way. In fact, I've never been all that thrilled with the rubber swingarm bushing setup, right from day one. Facts are facts, however, and for whatever reason(s) the OEM parts have proved to be reliable to the point of being taken for granted. When all else fails, go by actual results, they speak for themselves. Given my druthers, I'd have spec'd ball bearing swingarm pivots and at least a grade 10.9 bolt. The only conclusion is that, apparently, man does not live by Rockwell testing alone

It is funny how this subject comes up and Here My nieghbors 78 trail 70 has a Wonky Swingarm....

It was fine a few months ago when we drug it out and got the 70 going on it. A safety insp later and he was using it as a commuter ride. He decided to ditch the 70 and put a new lifan 150 on it. I guess its been 300 miles or so of nothing but street riding that did his in.

This is a 1200 mile bike that was Basement stored. His bike with new gearing is very quick.
I'm wondering if its the simple fact that parts that did ok with 30mph top speed and 5hp Just can't cope with 60+mph speeds and 12-13hp.

I know as soon as I get a chance I'll be pulling the swinger and Machining a brass bushing with a grease fitting for it.

I've wondered the same thing. 30 years is elderly for a rubber part. Still, I have yet to come across one that's failed...only heard about them. Pivot bolts rust-welded in place have been more common, maybe about one per year; these have required cutting, drilling and bushing replacement. The rubber gets destroyed in the removal process and takes a lot of work to remove, indicative of healthy rubber. I have seen a number a PRC copies (pivot bolts, too) that died prematurely. If OEM parts are all that's required to lay the issues to rest, no biggie; get the info into wide circulation, make the minor ammendments and enjoy your bike. The OE swingarm on my daily rider (`72 JDM Dax) saw just shy of 10K miles of 50-60mph use before I went with an aftermarket alloy unit. It's still in tiptop condition, go figure.

Something you should consider is how to maintain the original structural strength with your new bushing setup. The swingarm pivot bolt needs a fair amount of torque. The bolt & swingarm bushing cneters function as structural reinforcements for the weakest point of the frame. And, you don't want the pivot points rubbing against the frame as the swingarm moves, that would wear away frame material. Your bronze bushing idea would work if you use a solid through-collar that remains stationary between the mounting points, with the bushings themselves pivoting on the collar. The more common solution, where rubber bushings are not used, is a pair of sealed ball bearings seperated with a distance collar, as the wheel bearings are.

Just an FYI...those original rubber bushings are supposed to remain stationary. All of the swingarm motion is courtesy of the rubber itself, which flexes to absorb the shear. Full swingarm motion involves very few degrees of arc, well within the modulus (flexing capability) of the rubber. The centers of OEM swingarm bushings are steel tubes and they don't move. The setup is very similar to automotive leaf spring bushings.

I bought new swingarm bushings in advance expecting my 70' HKO's would need replaced during the restoration process. During tear down, I was surpised to see that they were in perfect condition. I didn't have to replace them at all.

Originally Posted by racerx

The swingarm pivot bolt needs a fair amount of torque.

Is there a specific torque to use on this bolt. cant seem to find anything in my shop manual?

According to the Clymer's manual 29ft-lbs.