Thread: When did they stop making the CT70?

A 1992 is for sale locally for pretty cheap and I did not realize they were built this late. When was the last production year of these trail bikes?

They were made from '69 thru '83 and then from '91 thru '94. The '91 thru '94 had 12 volt electrical systems with CDI ignitions. The older one's were all 6 volt with points.

The 1991-1994's are the best riders. However, you have to get rid of all the plastic on those to make them look good.

The 91-94's were also made in very low production and a good used one goes for $1000-$1500, and a mint one can bring more. They sold terrible and were around $1500 new.

I own both early and late CTs. The looks are definitely with the early bikes, but the 91-94 definitely are more practical street bikes.

The late bikes have 12v systems that provide for decent headlights/signals, a locking fork, and a locking seat/helmet holder. No points to adjust, and the roller bearing cam is a good improvement.

The show bike i am working on is a 12v frame/goodies, with the early chrome look/handlebars. Best of both worlds.

Cheers!

John

The 1990 bikes were, by far, the ugliest CT ever made. No wonder they didn't sell! Honestly, Honda had lost the thread by this point, and everything that used to look good on the bike, they buggered it up.

First of all, they painted the rims AND hubs white (for the first time ever, I think). If there is any part of the bike I don't want white, it's the rims and hubs, which get a lot of chain oil and dirt on them and white doesn't exactly hide the dirt. Silver does. I'm surprised they didn't paint the engine covers white.

Then they made the headlight a bulbous atrocity. Yeah, they probably shine brighter, which is good, as long as it's not shining it's light on another 1990 CT70.

They had long ago lost the plot on the decal, but this one really takes the cake for bad taste. Purple and teal? What the hell? And they moved the whole decal towards the rear of the bike for some reason, not taking advantage of the long body, which begs to have something, anything, written across it.

They decided to also go with the big, plastic front fender like the 1980 bikes. These are so far inferior looks-wise to the chrome numbers it's not even funny.

At least the colour is nice and shiny, but it's the same colour they had since 1980. Honda used to be fairly creative and experimental with the CT colours, but seemed to have just given up by the 1980s.

And of course, good luck finding any chrome on that bike. But I know a guy who owns two of 'em, and his smile is just as big when he's done riding as anybody else's who's riding the more vinatge bikes, so...

I'll never go back to a 6V points bike. The key is adding a couple of nice chrome pieces and getting rid of the plastic and you'll have the best of both worlds. I love my 1993.

Mine has 12" wheels and front and rear disc brakes, 30mm forks and a digital speedo/tach/temp/shiftlamp cluster.

The engine will be back in it on a month and she'll be ready to fly by spring after I finish up the rest of it.

...And with the fold-down Honda bars and K0 decals with some other touches here and there to give it a retro-restomod theme.

I only need to look out for potholes so I don't bend up the wheels.

I guess they really wanted to differentiate them from the previous models.

Need a pulled back picture of that bike, pony. You've taken full advantage of the 12 volt system, it looks. I can see why you wouldn't want to live without it. You must have dipped into the European market for some of that stuff like the top plate and cluster of guage goodies. Do you just street ride that bike?

Originally Posted by steampick

Need a pulled back picture of that bike, pony. You've taken full advantage of the 12 volt system, it looks. I can see why you wouldn't want to live without it. You must have dipped into the European market for some of that stuff like the top plate and cluster of guage goodies. Do you just street ride that bike?

I import stuff directly from Japan for myself and anyone who asks.

When the bike is done here over the next couple of months I'll post a gazillion pics. I took these pics back in May of 2007 and am working on more high-priority mini-projects and this one is on the backburner.

With the original question answered and the thread careening off the road, I'll offer another $1.02 (that's $.02 after inflation and the de-valued greenback )

Honda may have "lost the thread" of the original bike, but it's not that cut & dried. Inflation and politics drove-up the cost of the signature finishing details. The only choices were huge price increases or cost-cuts. Honda responded by eliminating candy colors and chrome (which has continued to skyrocket), effectively streamlining CT70 & ST70 models. Adjusted for inflation, a K0 that retailed for $350 would be somewhere north of ten times that amount now...and that doesn't take EPA compliance into account.

Completely 100% stock, `90s vintage 12v bikes are the best (functionally), with `80s versions coming in second. It's worth mentioning the fact that there's really very little substantial difference between any model from a K1 (1972) through the end of production, once you start modifying things. Change the front suspension and the playing field is effectively levelled. Change engines, as well (and/or upgrade to 12v & CDI), and model year is virtually a non-issue. In fact, at that point, a later production date becomes a disadvantage in terms of insurance & registration. It's possible to mix & match most items between model years, with a few exceptions. CT70s all have a lot more in common than differences.

PE's bike is one of the finest custom examples out there. Aside from the orginal 12v lower end of the engine and `93 VIN, its model year/date of manufacture is mostly meaningless at this point. I'm not throwing stones here. I, too, refer to my bikes by year of manufacture, only the frames & VINs remain unaltered from original. That's the point, the further you deviate from stock, the less model year matters.

There is only one structural difference with CT70 frames: K0/HK0 frames have three reinforcing plates welded inside the engine mount area. These frames can develop hairline cracks above the upper engine mounts, between the front plates, where the fuel lines come through the frame. Later models (K1 & up) have a one-piece front bracing welded in place. A couple pieces of scrap steel and a welder are all that's needed to eliminate the weak spots. Everything else of any real consequence is a bolt-in. This includes the K0 swingarm, later models have fully boxed construction.