Thread: auto clutch adjustment tips

so I'm trying to adjust my clutch a bit to get the kick starter slipping less. I just want to confirm that I've got the procedure right.

loosen the lock nut

turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it stops. loosen adjusting screw 1/8-1/4 turn counter clockwise.

tighten lock nut

does that seem about right?

so I did the steps I outlined above, but now it seems like the clutch does not disengage. The 1-2 shift is very difficult, and when I hold the gear lever up or down, it is still in gear.

anyone have a brilliant solution?

thx!

Turn the adjusting screw in just until you feel resistance. (This is where all of the slack is removed and is the same as holding the clutch lever at the point where resistance can be felt with a manual clutch.) Then back off 1/8 turn and retest the bike. From your description, there's too much slack in the clutch linkage. Keep in mind that basic guidelines are just that... guidelines. Most of the time they'll get you close, but there's still some tweaking required to get things dialed-in. In the case of clutch adjustment, wear can be a factor too. In this instance, I'd keep tightening-up the adjustment in tiny increments & restesting until the clutch action is correct. Should that prove impossible, it may be time to rebuild the clutch (which is no big deal either).

No brilliant solution. All you can do is keep playing with the adjustment either in or out on the adjusting screw. If that has no effect than other problems exist. Always do the adjustment with the engine off. If that does not solve the problem than it could be problems with the shift linkage itself which means tearing the engine apart. Its no big deal to those who have done it before or have experience with these engines. To others it is a big deal.

so if I understand correctly, I don't want the screw all the way in, or all the way out, but somewhere in the middle, based on where I feel resistance while turning it in?

thx!

ok I turned the adjuster screw all the way out (counter clock) and then adjusted it in until I felt some resistance
Shifts like a charm now.
Starting still sucks, but I'm willing to leave well enough alone at this point

Sounds like worn clutch discs. Aside from removing the clutch cover/oil spinner screws, it's not a very difficult job. The cases don't need to be split and you won't part with much cash, even if replacing the clutch plates & friction discs. For a reasonably accomplished shadetree mechanic it's an afternoon's work. For those familiar with a CT70 clutch, about an hour, mainly spent cleaning things like the inside of the oil spinner.

3 speed, 1970, ct70, auto. i too am having trouble with the clutch adjustment nut. when i was much younger, i recall 2nd gear not engaging until i let up on the shift lever. the one i have now, shifts into 2nd right when i depress the pedal. (from 1st to 2nd, and i think the same for 3rd).

does this sound like a simple tweak to the adjustment or something more complicated. thanks

Originally Posted by rickharp

3 speed, 1970, ct70, auto. i too am having trouble with the clutch adjustment nut. when i was much younger, i recall 2nd gear not engaging until i let up on the shift lever. the one i have now, shifts into 2nd right when i depress the pedal. (from 1st to 2nd, and i think the same for 3rd).

does this sound like a simple tweak to the adjustment or something more complicated. thanks

yeah the clutch is out of adjustment. It's a matter of going either in or out with the adjuster screw. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw. I'm no expert, so try tweaking it either way. When mine was doing the same thing, I turned it out in order to get the results I wanted

hey thanx i tried exactly what you said and it works alot better and i adjusted it once without tweaking kick starter worked alot better and it didnt try to pop a wheely when i put it in gear thanx again man