Thread: Carburetor? What would...........?

Original carb. Hasn't been run in let's say 10-12 years.

If you wanted a perfect running bike without worry.

What would you do...............

If it sat with gas in it you would probaly be better off buying a replacement from Honda for about 150.00.Not original but works great.Or got to DRATV and get one of their aftermarkets.

Don't forget to replace the fuel lines also

24 views... with only 3 votes (so far)... discouraging..


Thanks for the "don't forget" Dennis d, but lets stick with the "carb" subject for now. There will be LOTS more to come, I assure you...

If you can clean it and rebuild, I think that would be the ideal situation. There are many who have used aftermarket from Dratv, with much success, but they are designed slightly different, with shutoff/petcock on opposite side. I am currently in the process of trying to rebuid mine, but if that doesn't work out, I will be contacting dratv.
Bryan

You didn't really give enough choices. Personally, I would remove the carbueretor with the intentions of cleaning it. If I got the carbueretor apart and discovered calcification or corrosion of the zinc, I would replace it. What I would replace it with would depend on what my goal was for the bike. A fun rider would get a new aftermarket, a restoration would have me checking out eBay etc. for a rebuildable used carb.

Your mileage may vary depending on your skills...

Cheers!

John

John,
What would help you determine if the corroded version of what you had, would be any better than one for sale on an auction site?

I had one of the aftermarket carbs which worked great but with the petcock on the opposite side your constantly burning your hand whenever you mess with the fuel shut off.I would try rebuilding your original first and if that doesn't work go with one from Honda,at least it has the petcock on the correct side.Like someone else posted,it all depends on what you want to achieve.If you're restoring,try and keep it original.If you just want a good rider,do what works.

Originally Posted by Havin' fun

John,
What would help you determine if the corroded version of what you had, would be any better than one for sale on an auction site?

I'd ask the seller. If I wanted to be sure, I'd ask him/her to open it up and take a pic of the inside. Zinc corrosion is easy to spot.

I have also bought several of something to make sure I got a good one. I wanted a CT90 speedo for my CT70, as the CT90 speedo has an odometer. I bought three off of eBay, and I'm using the best one. The others I'll re-sell, since they're good, just not as nice. When I am restoring, I often end up with many of the same things to end up with enough serviceable parts. Then I sell whatever is left over that is serviceable, and rest is the cost of the restored part.

Cheers!

John

For an original bike, I'd use an OEM original carb. If, upon cracking open the float bowl, I found alien life forms/coral reef formation/cure for ebola virus, then I'd look for a rebuildable core. They do come up on ebay. The majority of carbs I've come across have been rebuildable.