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Thread: Decals

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    rfranks's Avatar
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    Decals

    Hornetgod and I are putting KO decals on my bike tomorrow. To avoid air bubbles what is the best way for applying decals? Thanks

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    maugust24's Avatar
    maugust24 is offline 110cc maugust24 is on a distinguished road
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    I always peel back the backing about a 1/2 inch and bend it over. Place the top of the decal it its location and go back and forth pressing downward. As you do that the backing startes to peel back on it own. Just go slow. I also do it dry. Some use water to adjust the decal where they want it. I lay the decal on the bike where I want it and make a couple of light pencil marks. Then wax them off when I am done.
    1970 Z50A K1
    1970 Z50A K2
    1970 CT70 KO
    1970 CT70 HKO
    1971 SL70 In Progress


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    XSIVE's Avatar
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    There has been a topic on this before but I always use the wet method. Spray bottle with just a very small amount of soap. The decal will slide around to give you the time to align it. Then wipe gently with a semi wet cotton cloth to get out the air bubbled and excess water. I did mine this way and they turned out perfect and aligned.

    When I see peoples cars that you can tell they tinted themselves and are full of air bubbles, Its because they just applied it straight to the window.
    1971 HKO Metallic Irish Green
    1974 K3 Candy Topaz Orange

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    rfranks's Avatar
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    I'm just affraid that if I do the water and soap method the letter might shift around on me.

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    The soap water method is the safest. There a small plastic soft spatula thingy i got from the sign shop to smooth out the bubbles after you have it postioned then 24 hour dry time...works like a champ. Used to ruin them all the time before doing this. Just get the correct water to soap ratio.

    Applying your custom vinyl graphic is easy enough to do by yourself. The following tools are recommended when applying vinyl decals or lettering. Please note that these instructions are NOT for rear window graphics. Please see Rear Window Graphic application instructions.

    *

    Masking tape
    *

    Level
    *

    Squeegee
    *

    Application spray
    *

    Pin or exacto knife (optional)



    Cleaning Procedures:
    All surfaces are contaminated to some degree. To ensure good adhesion to any vehicle surface it is critical that you follow these recommended procedures in decontaminating and preparing the surface prior to any vinyl product installation.

    1. Wash and rinse the area with liquid dish detergent and warm water. Then dry the vehicle surface with a clean, lint-free towel or cloth.

    2. Finish up the cleaning process by wiping down the entire area with Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol). To avoid recontamination during the final cleaning step, wipe the surface in just one direction, using a clean, lint-free towel or cloth. You are now ready to apply the vinyl.

    Temperature Recommendations:
    Surface temperatures should be between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit before attempting the installation. As a general rule, if the surface is hot to the touch it's over 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Adhesive becomes brittle when it gets too cold and gummy when it gets too hot. Applications outside the recommended range of 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit reduce the adhesives' ability to perform.

    Application Procedures:
    You can choose to apply vinyl in one of two ways; dry or wet. Applying vinyl graphics dry does not allow for any mistakes. Once the vinyl touches the surface, there is no removal without damage.

    However, applying vinyl graphics with application spray allows you the opportunity to remove and reposition vinyl as needed for up to several minutes. For obvious reasons, this method is recommended for both beginners and experts. To apply using the application spray, spray the surface thoroughly. Then lay the vinyl on a flat surface and spray the adhesive side as you remove the backing. An extra set of hands is a good idea. Then simply apply the vinyl to the surface.

    Do not excessively stretch vinyl during the application. This is the main cause of end lift. Pull the vinyl only as taut as necessary to keep a straight line. Because vinyl is a pressure-sensitive product, a squeegee should be used for all installations. The purpose of using a squeegee is to remove the excess fluid and or air from behind the vinyl. You should always start the squeegee from the middle and either use a straight up or down motion. Allow the vinyl to set for 5 to 15 minutes.

    (Pinstriping can be laid down initially using your thumb. However, after the application tape is removed, a squeegee must be used on all cut ends including door breaks as well as the ends of the stripe.)

    When removing the application tape, always pull it slowly, back onto itself, at a 180-degree angle. Bubbles should be punctured using a pin. Do not slit the vinyl to release the air. If the vinyl is slit it will spread or gap. The cutting or trimming of any stripe or graphic should be done using a very sharp knife and very little pressure.
    Last edited by Darthvader; 03-21-2009 at 11:58 AM.

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    rfranks's Avatar
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    Thanks for the detailed instructions.

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    hornetgod's Avatar
    hornetgod is offline 120cc hornetgod is a jewel in the rough
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    Ryan ended up doing them himself and after seeing them up close, I have to say he did a fantastic job! I'm certain Frank's detailed instructions helped out too.
    1970 CT70HK0 Candy Emerald Green (restored)
    1972 CT70HK1 Candy Ruby Red (restored)
    1973 CT70K2 Candy Topaz Orange (Grandfather's original)
    1974 CT70K3 Candy Topaz Orange (low mileage original)
    1974 CT70K3 Candy Riviera Blue (restoration-in progress)


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    rfranks's Avatar
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    I go wet all the way when doing decals from now on. That sounded kinda dirty? THe decals turned out great and only spent about an hour on them and no curse words came out of it. Hornetgod gave me a new chain today and helped me put a healacoil in the bottom of the engine for the skid plate. Thanks Bill

  9. #9
    hornetgod's Avatar
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    No problem, I cut the damn chain too short for my HKO. My loss was your gain buddy. Those DID gold racing chains are nice. Only cost you a half a CT70 tank of gas and a Taco Bell value meal. You came out a clear winner there.
    1970 CT70HK0 Candy Emerald Green (restored)
    1972 CT70HK1 Candy Ruby Red (restored)
    1973 CT70K2 Candy Topaz Orange (Grandfather's original)
    1974 CT70K3 Candy Topaz Orange (low mileage original)
    1974 CT70K3 Candy Riviera Blue (restoration-in progress)


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