Thread: Kick Starter

The kickstart rarely works on my k3. Im glad it starts first kick (1 every like 50 kicks), It wil go down about 1/8th of a turn catch and click then slip the rest of the way. I have adjusted the clutch many times to no avail. Could this be a worn out clutch or is something serious messed up. Ill take the RH cover off but i dont wanna split the case right now.

That's likely worn clutch plates. You don't have to split the cases to get at them. The RH cover has to come off, and you then have to get 3 Phillips screws off the clutch plate cover. After that it's all downhill to get at the clutch and get the plates out. Best to have a manual for this job when you go to put it back together.

Thank you very much, i have a clymer manual, of and i found out that if i put it in first gear and roll it backwards itll kick everytime.

The first gear trick you've described seems consistent with a kickstart gear friction spring problem. Clutch plate slippage would be consistent, once the starter mechanism is engaged. The kickstarter will work even without the friction spring, but it'll be temperamental. You might try moving the kickstart arm quickly by hand, using interia to "replace" the slipping spring. (It's easier to move it really fast than by foot and can also be easier on the kickstart gear if there is an engagement issue) If it grabs more consistently, without slippage, then you're going to have to split the cases to fix the problem. If you can feel the kickstart mechanism engage, then you should be able to feel some resistance from the slipping clutch plates. Clutch slip can be verified by pulling the RH cover and attempting to "kick" the engine over by hand. You'll see the countershaft gear moving while the clutch remains stationary.

Thanks x, im gonna take the rh cover off this weekend and post back. When it slips it makes a very load pop, its kinda worring me but i have confidence lol.

My new KO would slip while kick starting.
Removed the clutch pack, the steel plates were pitted and I suspect had a "cheese grater" effect on the frictions.

Am I wrong to think synthetic oil exacerbated the slipping?

Originally Posted by Art

My new KO would slip while kick starting.
Removed the clutch pack, the steel plates were pitted and I suspect had a "cheese grater" effect on the frictions.

Am I wrong to think synthetic oil exacerbated the slipping?

Scarred plates go hand-in-hand with corrosion and heavy clutch wear. Dunno about the "cheese grater effect" per se, slotted/drilled brake rotors don't eat brake pads. If you're talking about rust pits, then the friction linings would wear quickly until the rust was polished away. That would happen very quickly. More likely, the overall stack height of the clutch pack was below spec and those vintage original clutch springs have gotten tired after 37 years.

These engines pre-date current synthetic formula bike oils by a couple of decades. Clutch slippage has been reported when using synth and the fix usually involves new friction discs. Frankly, I'd pop for new springs, plates & discs and be done with it.

Originally Posted by glitch666

When it slips it makes a very load pop, its kinda worring me but i have confidence lol.

I'd be worried too, gear problems come to mind. Clutch slip makes roughly the same noise as a tuna salad sandwich. Sorry to pi$$ on your parade, I calls `em like I sees `em.

Originally Posted by racerx

Scarred plates go hand-in-hand with corrosion and heavy clutch wear. Dunno about the "cheese grater effect" per se, slotted/drilled brake rotors don't eat brake pads. If you're talking about rust pits, then the friction linings would wear quickly until the rust was polished away. That would happen very quickly. More likely, the overall stack height of the clutch pack was below spec and those vintage original clutch springs have gotten tired after 37 years.

These engines pre-date current synthetic formula bike oils by a couple of decades. Clutch slippage has been reported when using synth and the fix usually involves new friction discs. Frankly, I'd pop for new springs, plates & discs and be done with it.

Thanks racerx, I value your experience with these little money-pits.
Ordered everything you mentioned from Dratv this morning.

Believe I'll stay with dino oil.

If you're going to use synthetic, make sure you use a motorcycle synthetic that is designed for use with wet clutches. Avoid any oil with the EC (energy conserving) logo and Motul products (regardless of the advertising claims, slipping clutches are the norm with their synthetic). I have good luck with Mobile 1 V-Twin in my Kawi, but that is probably too heavy for a CT.

Cheers!

John