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Thread: trail ride

  1. #1
    kjax74k3's Avatar
    kjax74k3 is offline 120cc kjax74k3 is on a distinguished road
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    trail ride

    i just got my play bike together and its ok on the most part. im due by this sat.....i was pressured not really asked...... to go for a long as hell trail ride on an enduro track to figure the course before hand (part of the rhody rovers, im mostly a sidelines guy) and well to be frank im not only gonna be the tail i think ill be the roost they leave behind.lol now im fine with the whole climbing hills at 5-10mph in first thing and going 25-30mph if need be. now my shocks are ok as far as valving goes i beleive the seals held i read in the manual and a clymer that i can use common motor oils ect. for shock oil. what would be the best choice for a knarly ride? and what is the best. and what can i do to get some quick added get up and go? i cant order stuff it would take too long.one other question i was asking is is there a larger tire w could add to these bikes? this ones a real butt beater in the trails all the rutts ect. lol it runs through mud like no problem but i have to use my feet like a million times to do any serious riding. and yet another annoying question and i know by now you not only wish i would shut up but are finding duct tape, lol, are there any aftermarket handlebars to add that get rid of the chopper "ape hangers" feel?
    bored with 4 wheels and traffic bring on the woods!

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    racerx's Avatar
    racerx is offline Super Moderator racerx has a reputation beyond repute racerx has a reputation beyond repute
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    For the front, I'd replace the original springs with HD, along with adding new seals and 10 or 15w fork oil. If you're dead set on keeping the original springs, then at least pull the fork legs apart to clean out the sludge & metal bits and use 20w fork oil. Add the spec amount of oil, then in 5cc increments, add more & re-test until you can just feel the compression action begin to tighten up. That'll give you a nice little improvement, practically for free.

    Out back, I'd replace those stock shocks. The springs are simply too weak to prevent bottoming-out while offroading and continued bottoming-out will beat the upper shock mounts to death. I've seen enough bent ones + a few that snapped. The rear shocks are non-rebuildable. If, as you've mentioned, the rear tire's "a real butt beater"...t'ain't the tire, it's the shocks bottoming out.

    If you go with taller tires, that will affect clearances in more ways than one, effective gearing, too. If you're looking for the ultimate in offroad tires for the muddly stuff, source a pair of sno hogs. Can't run `em on the street, but for grip on loose surfaces they've got it - big time.

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    kjax74k3's Avatar
    kjax74k3 is offline 120cc kjax74k3 is on a distinguished road
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    thanks racer i was reading your gear ratio algebra and it seems prtty straight forward i wanted to thank you for that it worked well.as for the rear shocks i fig. that much lol those shocks dare i say... stink like old mens shoes on a hot day. it prob because mostly kids rode them. i was going for more stuff like you said the better shocks ect. i just have to wait till i can order em but the other idea sounds good the valving is okay but i have as i was told by some guy that apparently thought i ride only street put atf fluid in there for a verrrrry stifff shock.... ouch my arms!the back shocks are just pain useless lol i could have used a set of pogo sticks and done better lol
    Last edited by kjax74k3; 06-22-2009 at 12:35 AM.
    bored with 4 wheels and traffic bring on the woods!

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