Thread: Will It Fit?

Let me know when you want to sell that motor

I'll buy it from you

Dont know when I will sell, the serial number of the engine is Ct70E-301047. I will sell with carb and air box for 125 plus shipping. It came from a bike with a frame serial number of Ct70-2101007. Probably sell at the start of spring, keep looking on this thread for updates. I AM NOT 100 % SELLING THIS MOTOR ANYTIME SOON I AM JUST TRYING TO GAUGE INTEREST!!!!
Coming from area code L1G3J6 OSHAWA ONTARIO CANADA will ship however you want.

Thanks,

Steven

Shipping to Beverly Hills CA from Oshawa Ontario is 107$ via UPS.

If you want to calculate shipping, figure motor weighs 50 lbs drained and boxed.

From the Postal Code L1G3J6 OSHAWA ONTARIO CANADA

Thanks,

Steven

Bump as above, Also,

Does anyone know if I can use this motor and the stock throttle cable? I just need to know what to buy on top of this engine kit. I am keeping it 6v since I do not need it for on road use.
110CC_4A_T LIFAN_4_DOWN SHIFT_PATTERN KICK_ONLY

Thanks,
Steven

This will likely be a CDI 12V motor, you will probably want to convert your bulbs and battery to 12V

The throttle cable should come with this engine, it will likely work just fine

Is that all that is needed to convert to 12v? New bulbs and battery? Is the front headlamp of a Ct70 K2 easy to get into?

Thanks,

Steven

Originally Posted by da1nonlysteven

Bump as above, Also,

Does anyone know if I can use this motor and the stock throttle cable? I just need to know what to buy on top of this engine kit. I am keeping it 6v since I do not need it for on road use.
110CC_4A_T LIFAN_4_DOWN SHIFT_PATTERN KICK_ONLY

Thanks,
Steven

Dunno that I'd sell the original motor. That bike looks to be in pretty nice original condition, right down to the "holes & slots" muffler guard. You'd most likely lose more at resale time than you'd get for the original lump now. An engine transplant should be a bolt-in proposition and thus easily reversed when/if you wish.

The throttle cable should be a non-issue. You may even be able to reuse your original. Replacing your 6v bulbs & battery with 12v equivalents is easier and likely to give better results than trying to source a compatible 6v regulator/rectifier and at roughly the same cost. If your LH bar doesn't have a lever, you're going to have to add one, plus a clutch cable (maybe an engine-end cable bracket as well). As I recall, you can use the spacer trick to retain your OEM footpegs with an L110. Not sure if the brake pedal will fit quite right w/o mods. You may find the footpeg locations a little tight against the motor, compared to stock. If you ever plan on riding faster than about 40mph, then you're going to need a different sprocket combo; 15/35 is way under-geared for an L110. Should pull like a rocket on trails, though. Plan on replacing the weak stock chain with the best #420 you can find, otherwise you'll go through chains & sprockets like through a goose.

Your light weight works in your favor. The stock rear shocks should be okay under normal conditions, assuming that they're in decent mechanical shape now. You should get reasonably healthy acceleration from a 110 lump, enough for most suburban traffic; might even pick up a few mph of usable cruising speed. Likewise, the brakes won't have to work quite as hard as would be the case with a 190lb rider. I'd still compression-brake down to about 50mph before throwing out the anchor; it's not gripping power, but heat dissipation where the stock drums meet their match at speed. Lastly, you might try experimenting with 10w or 15w fork oil. A few extra CCs, beyond spec, of 10w should work wonders for you.

Originally Posted by racerx

The throttle cable should be a non-issue. You may even be able to reuse your original. Replacing your 6v bulbs & battery with 12v equivalents is easier and likely to give better results than trying to source a compatible 6v regulator/rectifier and at roughly the same cost. If your LH bar doesn't have a lever, you're going to have to add one, plus a clutch cable (maybe an engine-end cable bracket as well). As I recall, you can use the spacer trick to retain your OEM footpegs with an L110. Not sure if the brake pedal will fit quite right w/o mods. You may find the footpeg locations a little tight against the motor, compared to stock. If you ever plan on riding faster than about 40mph, then you're going to need a different sprocket combo; 15/35 is way under-geared for an L110. Should pull like a rocket on trails, though. Plan on replacing the weak stock chain with the best #420 you can find, otherwise you'll go through chains & sprockets like through a goose.

Am I missing that this motor has a clutch? I thought semi auto so there would be no need for a clutch lever? I will probably lower stock foot pedals with washers and I am ready to modify as needed. Any idea on what the Dr. means with "YOU WILL NEED SOME TERMINALS WITH THIS ENGINE, UNLESS YOU JUST CONNECT THE STATOR WIRES DIRECTLY." Tried e-mailing but it seems he is on break ! We all need one once in a while I guess!


Thanks,

Steven

Bump

Nope, I missed that you're planning on a semi-auto version. Most guys want a manual clutch, but not all...

Jack's been a reliable vendor for a lotta years now, seems as good a source as any for this motor. That said, the most straightforward way of approaching wiring is to source it, along with a schematic, from the same vendor as the engine. 12v/CDI isn't plug & play on an unmolested 6v bike. Bullet connectors can be used, but your life will be easier if you source at least the stub harness with the matching mod plugs to the stator outputs, CDI unit & regulator/rectifier. At least that way you only have to trace the wiring once (it'll be plug & play after the stub harness is integrated into your original wiring).